That box unscrews from the 2 other screw heads you see on the inside of the smoker. The sheet metal on the back isn't too thick so if you drill a hole just through the metal and then use pointy tin shears/snips you can cut into it to access the switch cover box you see halfway up on the right hand side of this picture (again, don't remove the back, this pic is showing u the switch cover box): If you don't have a panel just look on the inside and measure with a measuring tape from the ground up to get an idea of where to make a cut. This is the proper style, is ceramic, and is 150C so buy something different at your own risk :) IMPORTANT: Get this exact one!!!! There are 2 styles of switch that look the same but are not built the same and the other style will NOT work. Here is a link to ceramic ones that should not fail as easily as the plastic ones like the one from the Masterbuilt site. These switches are pretty low quality and melt down all the time so having more than 1 is pretty much mandatory. The part you want is a KSD301 150C degree switch. ![]() Under the panel it will look like this to get to the switch:Ģ.) Remove the back and get to it (way more complicated) If you are lucky you have a panel on the back of your smoker like the top one here labeled "Rollout Switch Panel": It is located here inside your smoker and is like the size of quarter: Most likely what has happened is that your safety rollout limit switch has failed. Changing to all hi temp connectors at the heating element safety rollout limit switch (if it has a panel) can be a 10 minute fix for $6. There are some MUCH simpler troubleshooting steps in areas that more commonly fail and are way simpler to fix. I would hold off on changing the circuit board and especially the heating element until you tell us what the MES id doing. ![]() We help guys fix their MES units all the time here as well as rewire them to use a much better 3rd party controller because the unit is too broke down as is or people simply want to upgrade the MES to become like an all new 100X better performing electric smoker (like going from a Golf Cart to a Cadillac) :) Masterbuilt rarely understands your actual issue and often just throws parts at you. This switch stops the unit from overheating BUT if the switch itself is overheating because the connectors are bad then it switches off until it cools down thereby cutting off power to your whole smoker. I swear they are made to only last 2 months before they corrode of burn off haha.Īlso if the unit heats up and then stops heating at some point, same issue the connectors and/or the safety rollout limit switch has started overheating and melting down usually due to bad connectors. It feels like 90% of the time failure to heat up is due to the crappy wire connectors Masterbilt uses at the heating element and at the safety rollout limit switch. ![]() The circuit board and heating element are not common parts to simply fail or mess up on you.
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